鉑金 ✦ Platinum
K 金 ✦ Solid Gold
包金 ✦ Gold Filled
純銀 ✦ Sterling Silver
黃銅 | 青銅 | 紅銅 ✦ Brass | Bronze | Copper

鉑金 ✦ Platinum

鉑金 (Pt)，又稱白金，是一種密度高、化學性質穩定、抗腐蝕性強且不易氧化的銀白色金屬，即使於摩擦中也不易受損。鉑金在自然界中的儲量比黃金稀少，加上其熔點高 (1,768 °C)，提煉鉑金比黃金更為困難 (黃金的熔點為 1,064 °C)，因此鉑金的價格也比黃金更加昂貴。除了上述原因，鉑金本身所呈現的銀灰冷白色系，使其成為鑲嵌貴重無色鑽石的首要選擇。雖然鉑金的硬度比黃金高，然而純鉑較柔軟，通常與其他鉑族金屬調配，才能用來製作鑲嵌首飾。鉑族金屬家族包含釕 (Ru)、銠 (Rh)、鈀 (Pd)、鋨 (Os)、銥 (Ir)、鉑 (Pt) 等六種金屬元素。

鉑金的純度以千分位數表示，常見的規格標示有 Pt950、Pt900、Pt850 等，其中 Pt950 表示含有 95% 鉑金 + 5% 其他鉑族金屬，Pt900 表示含有 90% 鉑金 + 10% 其他鉑族金屬。

Platinum is a rare precious metal which is naturally hypoallergenic and silver-white in color. It is lustrous, ductile, and malleable and has an excellent resistance to corrosion, oxidation and high temperature. Due to its high density, superior strength, and natural silver-white color, platinum has become an attractive choice for diamond settings.

Given that platinum is rarer and denser and has a higher melting point than gold – platinum melts at 1,768°C whereas gold at 1,064°C, it is more difficult and expensive to make jewelry with platinum than with gold. Platinum is often made into jewelry with a majority of its natural form and mixed with other platinum group metals to increase hardness and durability such as iridium, palladium, ruthenium, rhodium or osmium. The platinum standard is based on parts per thousand, where 1000 parts = 100%, and platinum jewelry is usually stamped with quality marks.

Pt950 or 950Pt means a composition of 950 parts platinum and 50 parts other metals.

Pt900 or 900pt means a composition of 900 parts platinum and 100 parts other metals.

---

K 金 ✦ Solid Gold

黃金 (Au) 為黃色貴金屬，其密度高、柔軟、抗腐蝕，且延展性為已知金屬中最高的。因黃金柔軟的特點不適合鑲嵌寶石，因此通常會在黃金中加入銀、銅、鋅等金屬，增加其強度及韌性，如此製成的合金便稱之為「K 金」。K 金中的黃金含量通常以 K 數表示，24K 為純金，亦即含金純度達 99.9% (目前尚未有 100 % 純度的黃金飾品)。18K 表示成分中有 75% (18/24) 的黃金，14K 為 58.5% (14/24) 的黃金含量，10K 為 41.7% (10/24)，以此類推。目前世界各國採用的金飾材料多半不低於 8K，以 18K 和 14K 最為廣泛。除了特別微小的製品，一般K金飾品會標示 K 金成色，例如：18K 金飾通常會打上 18K、K18、750 或 AU750 等印記，而 14K 則為 14K、K14、585 或 AU585。

為了豐富各種 K 金的表現力，在含金量標準不變的情況下，調節其它合金配比係數，可合成色彩各異的 K 金，最受歡迎且最常見的有黃Ｋ金、玫瑰金、和白Ｋ金。

黃Ｋ金：由純金、銀、銅熔煉而成。

玫瑰金：由純金、銀、及較高比例的銅所調配而成。

白Ｋ金：由純金添加鈀 (Palladium，Pd)、銀等熔合製成。由於白K金的基礎成分為黃金，其本色一般呈現些微的米黃色調，因此大部分的白K金珠寶表面會鍍上一層銠 (Rhodium，Rh)，除可增加類似鉑金的色澤與亮度，且能提升金屬本身的強度與韌性，是貴金屬珠寶製作中常使用的工藝，電鍍層經過配戴後可能逐漸磨損而顯露白K金本色。銠本身為銀白色的貴金屬，為鉑族金屬家族成員，具堅硬、耐磨、高延展性等特質。鉑族金屬家族包含釕 (Ru)、銠 (Rh)、鈀 (Pd)、鋨 (Os)、銥 (Ir)、鉑 (Pt) 等六種金屬元素。

► 認識 K 金、鍍金、包金

The purity of gold is measured in karats. Pure gold measures 24 karats but is too soft in this state to be used effectively in jewelry. To increase its strength and durability, pure gold is alloyed with other metals such as silver, copper, and zinc, resulting in the different karats of gold. The most common mixtures are 18 karat (75% gold), 14 karat (58.5%), and 10 karat (41.7%). A higher karat indicates higher gold content, higher purity and higher value. Gold jewelry is usually stamped with the karat mark such as 18K, K18 or 750 for 18-karat gold, and14K, K14 or 585 for 14-karat gold.

Gold can take on a different hue depending on the metals added. The most popular colors of gold in jewelry are yellow, white, and rose. All colors of gold still contain the same amount of pure gold per karat.

YELLOW GOLD is a gold alloy that consists of pure gold, silver, and copper. This unique mixture gives yellow gold its distinct color.

ROSE GOLD is a mixture of pure gold, silver, and a higher percentage of copper, also known as pink or red gold. Although the names are often used interchangeably, the difference between red, rose, and pink gold is the copper content: the higher the copper content, the stronger the red coloration.

WHITE GOLD is comprised of pure gold mixed with white metals such as palladium, silver, zinc or nickel. The natural color of white gold tends to have a slight yellowish tint. That’s why most white gold jewelry is plated with rhodium. Rhodium is a durable precious metal in the platinum family, often used to plate white gold and sterling silver jewelry for a long lasting sheen and a resistance to both scratching and tarnishing. Not only does rhodium plating gives the jewelry a bright white look with a mirror-like finish but it also increases the strength and durability of the metal itself. Over time the plating will wear off, exposing the true color of the metal.

---

包金 ✦ Gold Filled

14K 包金簡稱 14KGF，是指將 14K 金以機械壓製方式包覆於金屬胎 (如黃銅) 的表面，結合力強且耐磨度高，因此不易脫落。美國 FTC 規定，包金 (Gold Filled) 製品的金屬量至少須等於產品總重量的 1/20 (5%)，因此通常 14K 包金產品上會印製「1/20 14K GF」等字樣，有些配件因外觀考量則不會有字印，例如：小珠、鍊條、金線等等。包金產品的表面 14K 金層中含有約 41.5% 的其他金屬，這些金屬有不同的成分和比例，會造成色差，因此不同包金配件或不同生產批次可能會有色差存在。

包金產品具備 K 金質感，不易致敏，但隨時間和佩戴習慣同樣會發生氧化情況，保養方式與 K 金飾品相同，請參考 K 金飾品保養說明。

Gold filled jewelry is composed of a solid layer of gold, which is mechanically bonded to a base metal (usually brass) and does not flake off — much more durable than gold plated items and is allergy safe! Most people who have metal allergies and can wear 14k gold usually do not have any problems with the gold-filled.

Defined by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), USA, the minimum layer of karat gold in an item stamped GF must equal at least 1/20 (5%) of the item’s total weight. Therefore, the most common stamp found on 14kt gold filled jewelry is 1/20 14K GF. Caring for gold filled jewelry is easy, same as caring for your gold jewelry.

---

純銀 ✦ Sterling Silver

國際通用標準的純銀即 925 銀，是 92.5% 銀 + 7.5% 合金 (通常為銅)。沒有額外電鍍的純銀又稱素銀，雖較易氧化，但散發著溫潤如月光的色澤。

► 純銀鍍銠 (Rhodium Plated)：坊間稱鍍白金或鍍白K，是貴金屬珠寶製作中常使用的工藝，除可增加類似鉑金的色澤亮度，且能延長抗氧化時間，維持飾品外觀，但電鍍層經過配戴後也可能逐漸磨損而顯露素銀本色。銠本身為銀白色的貴金屬，具堅硬、耐磨、高延展性等特質。

---

黃銅 ✦ Brass

銅鋅合金，顏色偏黃。

青銅 ✦ Bronze

銅錫合金，顏色略帶青色或暗黃色。

純銅 ✦ Copper

又稱紅銅，為天然銅色。